Before

Before

Door Handle Removed

Antenna Removed

New Paint

Door Lock

New Paint 2

New Paint 3

The first mod I did was to change the rear drums to disc's from an 91 Shadow, not the first thing on my list it's just that they came up for the right price (FREE). A new 91 shadow master cylinder was installed as well.

The next thing was to find a common block, which I pulled from a 89 Turbo Van. The motor was bored .020 cranked polished with stock size bearing's and balanced. The balance shafts were tossed and the oil gallery plugged. The oil pan received a home made baffle. The rest of the short block was put back together with new oil pump, ARP rod bolts torqued to 50 ft. lbs's., new main bolts and the rest of the stock pieces, except for the front crank pulley which is an aluminum under drive unit from FWD performance ( http://fwdperformance.com/ ).

Engine Right

Engine Left

Engine All

Engine Top

The head had new 1 mm oversized intake and exhaust valves, and was port matched with the intake and exhaust manifolds. I used Mopar head gasket (MP4452006 for cross drilled blocks) and ARP studs (PN241-4501) torqued to 90 ft. lb's. with ARP lube. The intake is a 2 piece Shelby unit which was port matched to each half and also port matched to the 52mm (from a 3.3 V6 van) throttle body. The cam is the stock 89 turbo roller with new lifters. The fuel rail is a custom piece with super 60 injectors. An adjustable fuel regulator was used. (Later I may upgrade to a rising rate regulator)

Head

Turbo

The turbo charger is a Turbo II piece with a super 60 intake side and balanced with exhaust impeller. Not sure how well it will work with the 2.5 but it is all I can afford for now. I used steel Braided lines for oil and water to the turbo from Turbo's unleashed. These are way better than the metal/rubber lines that the factory supplies. The stock exhaust manifold was extensively ported. Since 3 ports flow through the same size hole as the fourth exhaust port. I tried to enlarge that as much as possible. These exhaust manifolds are offset due to turbo placement in the car.

I also have a 3" down pipe (Turbo's unleashed piece http://www.turbosunleashed.com/index.htm ) with a soon to be built 3 " mandrel bent exhaust system, with no cat. No intercooler has been installed yet as it still hasn't arrived. The blow off valve has been welded into intake pipe but not installed into car yet.

The trans received new bearings and was gone over by myself. Also installed in the 520 is a Chrome-Moly bearing support plate from Relentless Performance. A new clutch and pressure plate also came from  Relentless performance ( http://www.relentlessracing.com/ ).

The front suspension consists of a large front sway bar with new poly bushings. The springs were changed to Eiback springs front and rear. Shocks and struts are KYB's GR2's. The picture is a comparison of the stock front spring to an Eiback spring.

Wheels are ADR Ricochet 17 X7's with Yokohama 21540ZR17, AVS ES100 Ultra high performance summers tires.

Spring Comparison

More Pictures to come!

17 in. Rocochet

The electronics is a Chrysler super 60 (P5249528) unit . This is made for 88 or 89 wiring harness for a 2.2 litre motor. Mine was sent out to get it to work with a 2.5. I also used a GM part  #16040749 for the 3 bar map sensor. The rest of the harness is original. I do have a manual boost controller wired in as well hooked up to a vacuum switch. The super 60 is set up for 14 lbs. of boost, with hopefully 18 lbs. of boost on the manual controller.

The body itself was in very good condition but the paint was well faded. Since the car was a pale yellow to begin with I decided to go with yellow again, I picked 2001 Prowler Yellow. The door handles were shaved and a new hood (I think some one sat on it) was put on. All black trim was repainted. New carpet is at home just waiting to go in.

Part 2 : The Shadow gets an exhaust.

The original had 90,000 miles (150,000k) on it and was just about done. After looking under the car I knew it would be a tight fit, so I figured I would just tack everything in place and just keep trial fitting it

Original

Original Reversed

3 inch New Parts

Matching

I started with a 3 inch turbo flange from www.turbosunleashed.com and bought some 3 inch straight exhaust pipe and 3, 18 inch mandrel bends also 3 inch diameter. I bought a straight through Magniflow muffler. I pulled out the stock exhaust, and just started to copy it.

The first 20 () degree bends were easy to duplicate, but going up and over the rear suspension was a challenge. There is only enough room for a .25 inch clearance.

Matching Up

Looks Good

Completed with Paint

It took about 3 tries on every weld to get it right. And then I had to get the hangers just right as to hold the exhaust in the right position. I had to make the hangers a lot smaller than they were originally because of the 3 inch pipe, and the rear bracket was changed just slightly so the 3 inch exhaust would not rub on the bumper. The final product was well worth the effort. Just compare the old with the new.

When the exhaust had been trial fitted for the last time I then gave it a coat of black header paint. I didn't want to go with a chrome tip, so from behind all you see is the 3 inch dump.

Part 3 : The Shadow gets an Intercooler

Intercooler, BOV & air intake.

I started with gathering all parts I figured I would need. I bought a 10 foot piece of aluminized exhaust pipe, an IC (intercooler), a BOV (Blow Off Valve) and all the high pressure rubber elbows and straight pieces. This included 9 - 2.5 inch elbows and 1 - 2.5 inch straight piece. For the air intake I had some 3” aluminum and with that I bought 2 - 3 inch 90 degree bends. I picked up stainless steel clamps as well they all were 4 inch max (only size available) and cut them down for the smaller fittings. To get started I welded the supplied small pipe with the BOV to my IC pipe.

The next job was to fit the intercooler in the Shadow. I wanted to do this with minimal cutting of the front bumper, but I didn't want to sacrifice to much air flow, so a little cutting I could do with, but didn't want it to be to obvious. I bought this Intercooler (IC) due to price and the fact they used HKS pieces to make to the length I needed.

Exhaust/Blow off

Welded

Intercooler

Mounted

The next thing I did was to remove the stock Bumper to give me access to where I figured the IC could fit, Shadows don't have a lot of room, so little notching and bending will have to take place. Then to cut holes as to where my IC hoses would pass through to the engine compartment. My next task was to get the pipe cut to connect IC to the throttle body and turbo together, lots of trial fitting is needed.

It was very tight fit on the drivers side where the IC hoses go around the alternator, so here I would recommend holding it in place with metal straps so there can be no movement. Lastly I put in the air cleaner as it was the tightest fit and the decision of where to put it was decided for me as it could only go in one place due to room.

With the fan and shroud assembly in, there is very little room left!

Yes it fits!

Finished Hardware

Squeeze it in

Installed

Part 4 : Interior

The interior is basically all stock. I put in new carpet, and the rest of the interior was just cleaned up or what was broken or marked up I hunted the Auto wreckers for. I replaced the steering wheel with a pricey Momo wheel, and a matching shifter knob. The stereo is a 160 watt Clarion, and I replaced all 4 speakers with 2 way Pioneers and put a 12 inch sub in the trunk (more on this down further). An Alpine M300, 150 watt Amp sits under the driver's seat.

I now needed an alarm system that would operate the door solenoids remotely and I would also like it to include a remote paging system. For this I picked a Compustar CM3000. It did all of the following and has a turbo engine run feature. This feature lets the car run for 2 minutes after you shut the car off to cool the turbo. This works with manual transmission cars and has an auto start feature. I stuffed it behind the glove box, as it seem to have the most room with ease of wiring. A great system but it takes a bit of time to wire it out. I left the stock lock switches in place, but since I no longer have electric locks when you rock the door lock switch forward on the drivers door it pops the passenger door. When the passenger switch is rocked forward it pops the driver's door open. To hide the original door locks I covered them with material from an auto wrecker door panel, at best this is just ok, but it was cheap. The following pictures show my alarm behind the glove box, the other picture is of the covered door lock.

The next thing to do to complete the interior was to mount the sub in the trunk without having a bulking looking sub box and to put in new trunk mat. Since I have a donut for a spare, I figured I could mount the sub in the extra space. The original mat and wood spare tire cover was destroyed. I first needed to cut a peace of cardboard to get a pattern of the trunk floor, then to take the pattern and cut the ½ inch MDF to fit in the trunk. Since I wanted to still carry a spare, I would put a hinge on the coved to access the spare tire, cut a 12 inch hole in the cover so the speaker lifts up.

I lined the spare tire well with Dynamat, and held the spare tire down with a piece of aluminum. After that I had to thin the board in some spots so it fit to the uneven trunk floor and then screw it down. As you can see the tire well is offset. I purchased some new mat for the trunk floor and trimmed it so it fit up against the trunk walls. I put a black metal cover on the sub to protect it against damage.The stereo sounded great, along with the sub. I didn't know if the spare tire well would make a good enclosure, but seems to be ok. Now to clean up all the hundreds of small things left to do, and get that Daytona going for spring of this year!