Questions, Answers, and Comments

1. Hi Clive (Keith). I had written to you a couple of years ago and still love your site. I have an other question for you. (since you were the guru of MOPARS last time). I have a 74 360 engine, and I wanted to have it balenced at a machine shop. They asked me if it was internally or externally balenced (which I don't know). Could I change it to internal if it is external? I have bought a SFI balencer from moparts for a 74 360 and they didn't ask me what type of balencing my motor had. Still one more question, I have an automatic, so what would you recommend for a flex plate, and do I need to balence my converter with it, if I balence the converter with it it will make it impossible to change it!? Shouldn't the machine shop know this type of info?  Please help as I want to get the engine machined so I can put it in the car this spring. Even if you can't help could you point me in the right direction for help, dam what can I say I'm desparate.
   Thank you, thank you thank you. ect!!!!
   From a MOPAR guy Kev.
   
   Hello again Kevin, I’m glad your still cruizing in to the site and I wish I was working on my car as much as you!!
   Now the 360. All 360’s from 1971 to 1992 (That’s all non magnum 360’s) are cast crank externanlly balenced only. Can the externally balanced crank be internally balanced, YES, but it comes down to being cost effective and replacing the damper and the flex plate and the Mallory metal, big bucks. Stay with it the way it is, unless you’re going killer wild you won’t have a problem. If you have the B&M offset balanced flex plate for the 360 for the correct trans (727, 904), you do not need to balance the converter and can remove the weights on the converter. This allows you to run any converter or change the converter with out rebalancing. You should be looking for another shop that knows more. The SFI damper that you have and with the correct B&M flex plate you have the right parts to balance the motor and do not need the Converter. The flex plate with its cut out section is compensating for the converter to run a regular converter and your damper is a SFI approved and is perfect as long as it’s a 360 unit. Get them to balance this as a complete unit. Some B&M flex plates for the 360 need a weight welded on, but let the machine shop handle it. Send them the crank, rods, pistons, your balancer and a 360 flex plate and that’s it. Don’t even give them a converter. If the converter was ordered for a 360 it might have a weight welded on it, just knock it off. Now in the future you do the converter in or need to change to a different stall no problem.
   Hope this helps and is not too confusing.
   Keith Mopar Magic

2. I was wondering if you could help me with a trouble i'm having with a 72 Valiant. I have converted to Mopar Performance electronic ignition and the car just wont run, I have triple checked all my wiring, but it just won't fire. I wired it per the instructions, and a have a 2 post resister and had a friend come over and check it with an ohm meter and it checks good, Voltage it getting to the module but car just won't fire.
   Any help would be appreiated.
   Thanks Randy
   
   Randy you didn't give me much to go on, I'm going to assume the car ran find before you did the conversion. The Mopar ignition kit should of come with an orange module, and that I would take to a local parts store and have them test it. I have seen trouble with then right from the box. If the wiring is right, and the pick up in the distributor is set up properly, I'm betting on the orange box.
   Hope this helps, Keith
   
   Hi Keith, on the weekend I finally have the car running. I did as you said and took the orange ignition module to have it tested, and sure as shit it tested no good! This wasted a lot of my time for somthing so simple, as I kept assuming it was somthing I did. I put a stock box on for now and it fired riht up. Thanks for your advice.
   Randy.
   (2dr Valiant 318. edelbrock 4bl.
   and soon to have TTI exhaust)
   
   Great News!
   Keith

3. Hi Clive, just a note to let you know that I like the Challenger write up. There are lots of pics floating around on the net and you gathered the best and put them together. I just wanted to let yo know the car will be a 2008 (not a 2009) , and will be relased in June of 2007. The newest rumour is that it will have the new 6.4 litre HEMI, at approx, 520 HP. With this nobody will be able to catch a Mopar, and hopfully Mopar will be kicking butt like the old days with the Hemi. You have a great site and a good collection of Mopars! The build info is great.
   Keep up the great work.
   Steve
   
   Thanks Steve, the new info is in the concept section.
   Clive

4. Hey guys, I recently got '67 dodge coronet in not too bad a shape. The guy I bought the car from said the engine is a 318". The VIN # says 383.It is definitely not a small block engine.he says 318 " wedge.Now I have heard people say there was such a beast but I have yet to see any. Nor is there any specs or anything else in any of the repair & info manuals I have looked at.I can't find the ID # on the block (not yet any way.)I say it's a 383 & there is no 318 big block.Have you ever seen or have any info on a 318 wedge?Please send reply to
   Thanks Steve
   
   Hi Steve, Congrats, Coronets are great looking cars, with lots of after market parts becoming available. If you have any pics send them and will get them posted. As far as your engine goes, it could have a 383, distributor in the front and on angle slanted to the passenger side. This is true for all Chrysler big blocks. If your car is a 318, it could be a poly 318, you can tell this buy the way the rocker covers are bolted down as they are bolted down on the middle of the rocker cover, and not around the outside, and the distributor is at the back of the engine. If it is a wedge 318 also known as a LA 318, all 68 to 2001 blocks. The distributor is also at the back but the rocker covers are bolted down on the outside edge. On your year you should have 5, ¼ inch bolts holding them down. On all small blocks the ID plate is just above the oil pan rail and is hard to see unless the car is on a hoist. If you can send a picture I’d be able to tell you for sure though.
   Good luck
   Keith

5. Hello Mopar guru, I noticed while going through your site tonihgt that you don't have and DC girls. Here is one that is taste full and shows a great car in hte back ground. I have a lot larger picture if that one isn't big enough. Great site, with all kinds of Mopars! I found you on the top 500 Mopar sites.
   Kelly
   
   Kelly, Thanks for the picture I will get it on the site as soon as I gather a few more. Nice car and girl.
   Clive (Moparmagic.net)
   
   

6. Hi Clive, I have found some pictures and info on the new Chrysler Sebring. Since you asked me to send info, here it is. The Sebring had been expected to make its showroom debut sometime during this calendar year, but the program has suffered delays and now it will arrive as a 2007 model. It will ride on a Mitsubishi Lancer-derived platform, but will be powered by Chrysler's own engines and will not be a Lancer clone.
   The Sebring will continue to be built at Chrysler's Sterling Heights, Michigan , plant, alongside Dodge's variant, likely a five-door hatchback. It will be powered by a 4 cylinder and possibly 2 V6 engines, all with variable valve timing. I have a attached a artists rendering and 2 pictures, complete with camouflage
   Hope this helps you busy guys out.
   Roger
   
   Roger, thanks for the inofrmation and pictures. I will get on this right away.
   Clive (Mopermagic.net)

7. I was wondering if you could help me with a trouble i'm having with a 72 Valiant. I have converted to Mopar Performance electronic ignition and the car just wont run, I have triple checked all my wiring, but it just won't fire. I wired it per the instructions, and a have a 2 post resister and had a friend come over and check it with an ohn meter and it checks good, Voltage it getting to the module but car just won't fire.
   Any help would be appreiated.
   Thanks Randy
   
   Randy you didn't give me much to go on, I'm going to assume the car ran find before you did the conversion. The Mopar ignition kit should of come with an orange module, and that I would take to a local parts store and have them test it. I have seen trouble with then right from the box. If the wiring is right, and the pick up in the distributor is set up properly, I'm betting on the orange box.
   Hope this helps, Keith
   

8. Hello there Keith and Clive, just a note to wish you guys a Happy New Year, and a thanks for helping me on my disc braks trouble that I had in the past. Since your help I'll havre the car on the road in the spring. I'm going down to Calgary for the Northerm Mopars Show in the Summer so maybe we can meet up or have a cofee together. I'll email you guys as time gets close.
   Thanks Kevin Ing
   
   You are welcome
   Keith and Clive
   

9. Hi Keith, just wanted to drop you a line to let you know that I got the Lancer back on the road and turbo charger is working great. Thanks for your advice and it shows you that the enthusiast is smarter that the dam dealerships. With out your help I think I would of sent that thing to the wrecker. You saved a Mopar and the rest of my hair..
   The wiser.... Turbo Fred

10. Hello Keith!,
    That's a cool Website you've put together. What are your daily drivers? I would hope they are Mopars, but then again you don’t have and pictures out there. Keith I have a question regarding the worth of a '68 'cuda FB. It's a very clean Formula S outfitted with an Indy 440ci. engine with MSD spark system. Its outfitted with just a holley 4bl carb. I know it has ceramic coated intake manifold & boasts a 2800rpm stahl converter with a 727 transmission. It also has a 15gal. fuel cell (trunk mounted). It has many other options as well. It also has been outfitted with custom headers, I'm not sure about the manufacturer though. BTW the paint is immaculate. It looks as though the car was rebuilt from the ground up. I am planning on driving it sometime in the upcoming week. I'm wondering what the dollar value of the vehicle is? Do you have any ideas? I would appreciate any information that you might offer in this regard.
    Thanks in advance,
    Larry Weigel
    
    Larry it sounds like you have a nice ride! Sometimes pictures are worth a thousand words, with out them I could give you a ballpark guess. A buddy of mine is running a 500 cid. It has Indy cylinder heads on a stroked 440 with a 900 cfm Demon carb in a 68 dart. tubbed to the stock frame with a ford 9”, this car has about $5000.00 in paint on it, with a list of new parts longer than my arm, valued at 44,000, now Cuda’s are more desirable, My Duster as you saw on the web site is valued at $28,000, and the Demon on the site is valued at $19,000. Your car sounds as if it between my Duster and my friends Dart, so with out pics, I guess around $32,000. (Very rough guess) Hope this helps, and if have any pics send them down and I’ll post them on the site.

    Keith, Mopar or No car

    
    

11. Hi Clive , just a not to say, that I checked out your updates and love it, but the Maserati Coupe stuff dosn't belong, especially in the garage section, unless you plan to put a Hemi in it! Now that is a project, love to see more info on the Duster and Cuda. I noticed that the Demon made it to a place called red deer. Keep the old mopars rolling.
    Dale
    
    The change has been made, thanks.
    Clive
    
    

12. Hi Keith, I love your site and your love for Mopars. The site is laid out nice. Kind of funny your parts are under classified, Are you going to list new parts under that tab? Could you help me with a problem that I'm having. I have a 318 dart (69) and now have in my position a 383 magnum 335 HP. Is there a way to just bolt this into the Dart without cutting the K frame? I know the original cars had trick K frames and that they are not available any more. What could I use for exhaust as well? I will take any other advice you could give me on this swap.
    My daily driver is a 97 Neon 5 speed header and exhaust kit other than that all stock. What do you drive, I know you can't drive your web cars in the winter, looks like you live in Canada.
    Thanks Steve
    
    Steve, this swap is easy and all the thanks goes to a company named Schumacher. Web site for them is http://www.engine-swaps.com/ they have complete engine mount kits that bolt a big block to your K frame. The think to note is you will need a big block tranny. Small blocks and big blocks have different bell housing bolt patterns. For the exhaust side of things you have 2 choices. Schumacher also makes a shorty header, that will work and get the muffler shop near you to make the pipes and use your muffler of choice. The second option is a better header made by TTI (http://www.ttiexhaust.com/), they also make a complete exhaust kit with mufflers that fits like a glove. The TTI system would be my choice but is a tad expensive. The other thing of concern is what rear end is under your Dart. If it is a 7 1/4, the 383 will annihilate it. An 8 1/4 could survive if you don't beat on it to hard.
    Hope this helps
    Keith